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When the shingles are being applied, lay them over the valley flashing, trim completions to the chalk line and nail the shingles at least 50 mm (2) back from the chalk line. Cut a 50 mm (2) triangle off the leading corner to direct water into the valley and embed the valley end of each shingle into a 75 mm (3) band of asphalt plastic cement.
Set up metal flashings where shingles meet walls or chimneys, too. Ice and water protector membranes work well to flash and assist safeguard around skylights, dormers, turbines and other difficult roof areas. Apply flashing materials in concert with the shingle setup treatment, with both the flashing and the shingles organized to interact to protect around the joint locations - installing shingles.
When using the brand-new shingles, each shingle course will be covered by a step flashing. Metal Step Flashing Pieces There are two basic guidelines to follow: Each flashing should overlap the one listed below by a minimum of 75 mm (3 ), but not be noticeable below the shingle leading lap. Imbed each action flashing in a 75 mm (3) large application of asphaltic plastic cement, and nail in location.
The metal step flashing pieces are rectangle-shaped fit and style, around 250 mm (10) long and at least 50 mm (2) broader than the face of the shingle being used. For example, when utilizing metal flashing with shingles with a typical 143 mm (5 5/8) exposure (such as standard 3-tab shingles), the size of the flashing will be 250 mm x 200 mm (10 x 8).
Note: Other step flashing sizes are also appropriate. For IKO's Cambridge shingle, with its bigger 5 7/8 direct exposure, a 10 x 8 flashing piece is still ideal, given that the 8 measurement is still at least 2 larger than the shingle's exposure measurement. Nevertheless, when flashing Crowne Slate, with its much larger 10 direct exposure, the flashing piece would require to be 10 x 12.
Position it so the tab of completion shingle covers it completely. Secure the horizontal flange to the roof deck utilizing two nails. Do not fasten the flashing piece to the vertical wall. This will permit the flashing piece to move independently of any differential expansion and contraction that might occur in between the roofing deck and the wall.
Ensure that the tab of the shingle in the second course will cover it entirely. Protect the horizontal flange to the roof. The 2nd and prospering courses will follow with completion shingles flashed as in preceding courses. When whatever that goes below the shingles has actually been correctly prepared and installed, it's finally time to learn how to shingle a roof.
Initially prior to you lay the field shingles (" field" referring to the large expanse of roof within the limits of eaves, ridge and rakes) it's crucial to install a preparatory course of starter shingles which are particularly made for that purpose. But, even if you fashion your own on-site by cutting standard shingles to size, both serve crucial functions at the roofing's eave.
Professional professionals frequently advise and utilize starter strips along rake edges in order to yield a straight edge from which all the field courses can begin. Moreover, these starter strips enhance the roofing system's wind-resistance at the rake. It's important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the specific roofing shingle because not all shingles have the exact same exposure (the part of the shingle that shows up when set up), balanced out (the lateral distance between joints in succeeding courses sometimes called 'stagger' or 'edge-to-edge spacing') and/or nail positioning.
You need to position nails in the proper place and drive them flush with, however not cutting into, the shingle. Nailing the shingles correctly is important to the roof system's wind-resistance. Correct nail placement is also a requirement for the shingles' limited warranty protection. If you have actually selected closed valleys, they are finished as shingle courses method and go through the valley. house shingles.
As shingles are set up on the adjacent roofing location, completion of each course of shingles is trimmed (cut) 2 back of the valley centerline. You have actually nailed in the last field shingle and you can see the goal from here. Well done! In this case, the goal is the hip and ridge capping. house shingles.
Rather, specific ridge cap shingles are used to straddle the ridge and shed thin down either slope. There are various ridge cap shingles offered on the market but, when again, the treatment for installing them is based on the same basic principle of overlapping. For hips, begin at the bottom and work upslope.
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